So What Do I Need To Raise Quail:
Cutler’s Pheasant & Poultry Supply 810-633-9450 www.cutlersupply.com
Their prices are subject to change * The list below is for general information
1588 - Hova-bator preset incubator with fan & 1610 turner with eggs racks(holds 120 quail eggs) $162.10
5003 - game chick feeder (holds 5lbs of feed) $8.50
455-J - waterer /gallon plastic jar $1.85
49qb - non drowning base ½ inch lip $2.60
P1qt - waterer / quart plastic jar $1.05
75 - non drowning base $1.60
Cutler’s also carries automatic water systems
container to brood chicks
pine shavings
100 watt / drop light 1 or 2 * depends temperature * (Walmart carries this in the auto department)
Jumbo Brown Coturnix Quail grow fast don’t over crowd your brooder! Depending on outside temperature you can move the chicks from the brooder to outside at 3 weeks of age. Hanging pens or a hutch with ½ hardware cloth wire works well. As always, we are here to answer any questions.
Incubation:
Jumbo Coturnix Quail incubation time is 16 to 17 days . Four factors are of major importance in incubating eggs artificially: temperature, humidity, ventilation and turning. Of these factors, temperature is the most critical. However, humidity tends to be overlooked and causes many hatching problems. Extensive research has shown that the optimum incubator temperature is 100°F when relative humidity is 60 percent. Concentrations of oxygen should be above 20 percent, carbon dioxide should be below 0.5 percent, and air movement past the egg should be 12 cubic feet per minute. There are two types of incubators commonly used:
Forced-air incubators which have a built in fan to circulate the air. Still-air incubators which have no fans, so the air is allowed to stratify. The forced-air incubator should be set at 99-99.5°F and 60-65% relative humidity (83-88°F wet bulb). The advantage of the forced-air incubator is that it is easier to maintain humidity at a constant level because of air circulation. Still air incubators are smaller and air flow is harder to manage. Set still-air incubators at 100 to 101°F at egg height. This is important since the air stratifies in these incubators. There can be as much as a 5° difference in temperature from the top to the bottom of some of the still-air incubators. Humidity should be 60-65% (80-90° wet bulb) during incubation and 70-75% (92-97° wet bulb) at hatching time. It is very easy to overheat the eggs in still-air incubators and difficult to maintain proper humidity.
Temperature
During the warm-up period, the temperature should be adjusted to hold a constant 101°F for still air, 99°- 100°F for forced air. To obtain reliable readings, the bulb of the thermometer should be at the same height as the tops of the eggs and away from the source of heat. Using two thermometers is a good idea to ensure you are getting an accurate reading. Incubator temperature should be maintained between 99° and 100°F. The acceptable range is 97° to 102°F. Mortality is seen if the temperature drops below 96°F or rises above 103°F for a number of hours.
Humidity
The relative humidity of the air within an incubator should be about 60 percent. During the last 3 days (the hatching period) the relative humidity should be nearer 65-70 percent. (Too much moisture in the incubator prevents normal evaporation and results in a decreased hatch, but excessive moisture is seldom a problem in small incubators.) Too little moisture results in excessive evaporation, causing chicks to stick to the shell, remain in the pipped shells, and sometimes hatch crippled. The relative humidity in the incubator can also be varied by changing the size of the water pan or by putting a sponge in the pan to increase the evaporative surface. The pan should be checked regularly while the incubator is in use to be sure that there is always an adequate amount of water. Adding additional water pans to small still-air incubators is also helpful to increase humidity. Whenever you add water to an incubator, it should be about the same temperature as the incubator so you do not stress the eggs or the incubator. A good test is to add water just warm to the touch.
Turning
Eggs set on their sides must be rotated 1/2 turn at least 3 times daily. Eggs set with the air cell end up should be tilted in the opposite direction 3 times daily. This keeps the embryo centered in the egg and prevents it from sticking to the shell membrane. If hand turning, to insure proper turning, mark each side of the egg with a pencil. Put an "x" on one side and an "o" on the opposite side. Stop turning the eggs for the last three (3) days of the incubation cycle and do not open the incubator until the hatch is completed to insure that a desirable hatching humidity is maintained.
Hatch Time
Do not help the chicks from the shell at hatching time. If it doesn't hatch, there is usually a good reason. Also, prematurely helping the chick hatch could cripple or infect the chick. Humidity is critical at hatching time. Don't allow your curiosity to damage your hatch. As soon as the chicks are dry and fluffy or 6 to 12 hours after hatching, remove the chicks from the incubator. It is good practice to remove all the chicks at once and destroy any late hatching eggs.
Some Basic Tips On Brooding Quail
1. Never allow the young to become chilled. 2. The brooder temperature should be maintained at about 95 degrees F. 3. The temperature of 95 degrees F should be maintained continuously in the brooder for the first week; after that the temperature can be decreased 5¡F every week until the 4th week. 4. A regular light bulb (60 watt), infrared bulb or any other heating unit can be used as a heat source. However for small-scale operations, a light bulb will provide both heat and light. If you do not have a thermometer, watch the behavior of the chicks for a while to determine whether they are too cold, too hot or just right. If too cold, the chicks will huddle together under the heat source; if too hot, they will walk away from the source of heat. Be care light bulb does not come in contact with anything that could cause a fire hazard. 5. Quail raised for early maturity and better egg production should be given a 24-hour period of daylight for the first 4 weeks, using an incandescent light bulb. 6. A cord board box works well for a brooder. Placing a sheet of paper in the brooder makes cleaning easier. However, never use a smooth paper since the chicks will develop spraddle legs and later die. Use paper towels or similar material. 7. Proper ventilation is a must for the young. Avoid drafts. 8. A balanced ration high in protein should be available to the quail chick at all times. A Game Bird or Turkey starter of 28 percent protein will provide excellent growth. 9. Always keep plenty of fresh water in a waterer inside the brooder. Take precautions to avert drowning since this is one of the main causes of early mortality among chicks. The cup of the waterer could also be filled with marbles or pebbles to prevent drowning. 10. Clean the waterer, check the feeder and change the litter. Discard the litter daily to avoid odor problems. 11. At the end of the 4th week, transfer chicks to the floor or cages.
We use & recommend Purina Game Bird Feed "Layena"
The above information is for your general information. It is always advised to do your own research.